Decoy, 2019 California Pinot Noir, 3.9%, $25, 4 stars. A budget-savvy bottling for this caliber of pinot. Earthy, with layered notes of cranberry, wild strawberry and cracked black pepper.

Benovia, 2019 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has generous fruit, but it's the wine's pitch perfect balance that's most impressive.